Evening's Delight - Cairns Catacomb




I tend to go to bed quite early as I start work quite early, so my phone is usually on silent by 8:30. Thus is was that I missed Michael’s in-coming txt late in the evening. When I blearily spied it next morning hours before dawn my first, second and third thoughts were all the same, ‘No’, ‘No’ and ‘No’.
Even without reading the txt I knew it would be some cunning plan for a last dash caving excursion before Michael left the West Coast, and ‘No’ I didn’t want to travel to some obscure corner of the Coast mid-week, and ‘No’ I couldn’t afford to take any more time off work this week and ‘No’ it doesn’t matter how exciting it sounds, I’m still not coming. So I left the body of the txt message unread ’til a little later in the day.
When I did finally open the txt, “An Evening Cave Trip”, “Exploring Uncharted Territory”, “Minimal Traveling Required”, blurted out at me like a fistful of Newspaper headlines. Blast! Now he had my attention. And having artfully dodged all of my pre-determined objections I was forced to re-consider my response. Technically it would only be one hour off work. And we would be home early enough for my usual bed-time – kind of anyway. Aaaand it was a cave I really wanted to see. It would also be the last time I would get to caving with Michael, at least for some time, whatever you may think of that.
So ‘Yes’ was my txt reply, and I set about tweaking my day’s schedule to make sure that the important things were covered off in the first instance. Then if the afternoon got a little messy, it would matter less when I knocked off early. Mid-afternoon Michael txt to say some emergency had cropped up and was doing its best to delay him. I guess it’s hard to expect absolute timeliness from an A&E doctor, people will have incidents at inconvenient times – for them as well as me. As my schedule had been already been foreshortened for the day, I just stuck with it, squeezed in an extra cup of coffee and made my way leisurely toward our destination.
One of the handy things about Cairns Catacombs is its proximity to the road. Park the car, hop out, grab your pack and take three long or four short steps down to the river bed – it’s usually comfortably dry, highly visible and clear from progress-hindering obstructions, a virtual highway through the forest. 

Where O where

From here it can’t possibly be more than 80m along the river course to the entrance. A kind of ‘second on your left’ sort of thing, which for caving reads, ‘second gaping black hole at ground level on your left’. Warren said it was thus, Michael recalled it being as such, there was no reason, there is no reason to believe that it wasn’t just there where it should be. Cave entrances are among the slowest moving things on earth. If you drop one out of your pocket at the end of the day, you can sleep easy for the night, confident of finding it in the self-same location the following morning.
Discrepancies arise occasionally of course as to ones recollection of where the cave entrance was, this is well documented and makes for reliably good story-telling by about mid-evening at your local watering hole. Having two or more people recall that an entrance is in a particular place decreases the odds of it not being there by a factor of not quite, but close to infinity. Does that make it sound like it was impossible to miss? Excellent, so now then is perhaps the perfect time to mention that we missed it. 

Cave Search and Rescue

We trekked confidently up this riparian motorway for what we estimated was the appropriate length of trekking for such an express-way. Yes, there was a gaping black hole which we could easily enter. Opps! Except that it clearly wasn’t what we were looking for, as this entrance went no further than the edge of daylight. Of course! We exclaimed to each other with a chuckle it’s simple, the entrance we want is right next door. And thus began our SAR for Cairns Catacomb. Under logs we peered, up on banks we hunted, a little further upstream and a little further downstream we double checked. We second guessed ourselves, we consulted our GPS devices, we recalled to mind the time we were here with so and so and the funny thing that happened that day. All to no avail.
Once our scalps would take no more scratching, nor our mouths any more gaping wide-open, Warren pouted ‘It should be just here,’ waving to a pile of logs next to where we were moping. A pile we’d already carefully cast our eyes over. ‘Hmm,’ says Michael, ‘strange isn’t,’ leaning exhaustedly over a recumbent beam, ‘just in here… here where there is quite a lot of blackness, and indeed of general nothingness.’ And thus we found it, under our noses and more or less exactly where it was supposed to be. Odd. Not really of course, just a tad deceptive that’s all…

Here Tis


I have to say it was the most disconcerting cave entrance I’ve ever been through. Essentially it’s a rock fall, through which you scramble, spending as much time and effort going sideways and up as actually going in the desired general direction which is to say down.
Some of the spaces between the rocks where we crawled were of ‘conventional’ passage size, other were almost non-existent. At any one junction it could not be taken for granted that the way on was through the large obvious hole staring you in the face, or down through the floor into the measureless suspense-laden inky blackness that you could just tell was down there. There were moments when the way on seemed like it was exactly back the way we’d just come from. It must be an extraordinary thing to have to find your way back up through that lot to reach the realm of the living once more.
It came as an incredulous revelation when the cave finally transitioned from the rock fall that had gone on and on like a particularly bad Friday afternoon (think ‘really could use a beer about now’), into a solid single-axis bedding plane (think of the gap under your car) and then shortly after into an orderly, spacious and quite frankly gorgeous phreatic (think Hobbit hole) passage. 

Which way is up

It is certainly a bizarre feeling to be aware that you’re quite some distance underneath an ephemeral river bed. We wound our way further down and further in, passing one junction after another. I began to hope all the more fervently that there wouldn’t be some catastrophe that would necessitate me having to find my way back out unaided.
Arriving at the ‘Uncharted Territory’ Michael quickly slithered out of sight down a one-way rift, leaving Warren Smith and I to scratch about to see if there were any suitable anchors to secure the rope to. There really wasn’t much on offer. Moreover the space that Warren and I had to work with was uncomfortably cramped, it being a microwave sized alcove on either side of 12m deep slippery sided rift. There were threads (holes through the rock) but they were badly place and flimsy, brittle looking things. While Michael is a compact individual one didn’t wish to be overly flippant with the safety factor of the line. Happily for Michael (and maybe his wife Sarah), Warren has a knack for making such things work and where others (me) might have said there was no such anchor, he not only found the necessary ingredients but also whipped up as nourishing an anchor as anyone could wish for. Once the lead had been sufficiently assessed (as a no-go), Michael was able to return from the inner most depths where no man had ever previously been.
Michael’s promotional txt had specified a maximum of 3 hours caving, which no sane person would have given any credence to being even remotely realistic – we all know cavers right? Yet here we were only 1 hour in and our primary mission was complete. So we puddled about on the way out, exploring side lines, and eventually ending up at the Great Wall of China. From there we crossed into Kublai Khan and into the Square Chamber (or whatever it’s called) and thence to the edge of the tomo exit/entrance. After debating the options open to us at this point we elected to cross through Xanadu, picking up a couple of Warren’s much favoured features along the way and ultimately out the river-bed level exit. 2 ½ hours from tip to toe and there was still daylight to be had. The variety of solutional cave forms represented in this one small area is barely less than astounding.
I couldn’t do it everyday, but there is certainly something to be said for An Evening Cave Trip and of course we actually got three for the price of one!

So far I’ve only gotten around to uploading one short video of the trip, which can be viewed here

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